Saturday, 18 April 2009

Day One - Land’s End to Perranporth

Yesterday we drove the campervan to Lerryn, near Lostwithiel where we have stayed before. Our friend Frank had kindly agreed to come with us and drive the van back to Bristol, and we have a friend in Lerryn who had said we could use his place for the night. Frank slept in the cottage and we slept in the camper in the carpark which we have used before. The big day was looming, and it was vital to get a good night’s sleep before setting off on this epic cycle ride. So, naturally, I was still awake at 3am, 4am, 5am….. I didn’t want to put the radio on and wake Mick and the only reading material I had was that dratted map so I passed the night putting the birthday of everyone I knew in my mobile phone, then learning how to use the voice recorder option which I thought might be useful on route.  Anyone outside at three in the morning would have heard me whispering “testing, one two three, testing”…
The stay in Lerryn did help to break the journey.  We had a pleasant meal in the Ship at Lerryn (after a scary moment when we thought the kitchen may have closed for the evening – only in England would the kitchen be closed at 8.45 on a Friday evening…)
For various reasons we were a little late getting down to Land’s End.  Even so, we decided it would be a good idea to set off on a full stomach so we stopped at Penzance where we found a traditional seaside cafe.  None of the crockery matched but the breakfast was excellent!  By the time we had taken photos at Land’s End it was 2pm by the time we set off.

But the weather was lovely and sunny and we were feeing good.  
We had pre-booked  (and pre-paid for) beds at the youth hostel at Perranporth, 46 miles away so this was our goal for the day (or what was left of the day).
I was expecting the ride to be really hilly from the outset, but in fact the first 20  miles to St Ives were gentle.  We were following the coast road and the scenery was lovely.

Mick, rather unkindly, said that swathed in blue plastic I resembled a condom. I retorted that he was not exactly a picture of sartorial elegance himself.



We dived into the Tinners Arms in Zennor to wait for the rain to ease a little – may as well have a pint whilst we wait we thought.  I tried a pint of Tinners Ale from the St Austell Brewery which was excellent.  Mick’s pint was so memorable he has already forgotten what it was.  He did however cause some hilarity when he tried to wander into the Ladies toilet.  “You’re in Cornwall now” said one of the locals – “!the Ladies get to go inside – the Men’s toilets are out in the yard”
After St Ives the weather improved but the hills did not.  Up and down, up and down until I was starting to feel quite seasick.  And weary. Finally we pulled into the Youth Hostel at Perranporth.  The situation of the Hostel  is fabulous, perched on the cliffs overlooking the beach.



Turned in at midnight, very tired.
Stats:
Miles cycled 47
Pints Beer drunk Each: 3
Hills pushed: 14

Route here:

Tuesday, 14 April 2009

Final Route Map

Well - "final" in a provisional sense. But I think now we have a pretty good idea of the route we want to take. I say "we" , in fact Mick has had no say whatsoever in this part of the preparations.
I am Routes and he is Maintenance.

Here is our route

Technical note - 98% of the time this link works perfectly well. However occasionally Google will display a map of Wyoming and the surrounding areas and now and again you will find yourself viewing a map of Norway. Why this happens I have no idea. I have, however, discovered that by simply clicking on the back browser button and then viewing again, that a map of the UK usually then appears. If this fails, you could try kicking your machine, or for smaller models, thumping the keyboard hard with your fist. I have found this to be effective although I take no responsibility for any damage caused either to yourself or your machine whilst attempting this procedure.

It (the route) is a little unusual in places - for example I have not found anyone else who has taken a tour of The Wirral - but I have never been there and probably never will again so why not.. I have not mentioned this detour to Mick yet, I am hoping that if I don't let him see the map he won't twig that I have flung in a few extra miles...

Things get a little crazy in Scotland. We have a zig-zag route across to the West Coast, then up the Great Glen towards Inverness, before a whopping big left turn to head back to Ullapool and the West again.

At this stage matters get even worse as it appears we are then taking a madcap tour across the mountains followed by a dip in the sea. (Brrr). This is indicative of my clumsy mapping skills rather than any desire to attempt extreme off-road cycling. By the time this virtual tour arrived in Scotland I was getting tired . (If I get this weary just drawing a map, what's it going to be like doing the real thing?)

We shall see how much of this plan actually comes to fruition, especially when Mick finally manages to see it. I may at that point be demoted from Routes for the remainder of the journey.

Wednesday, 8 April 2009

The British Weather

As I write, there is driving rain hammering on the windows and the wind is howling round the outside of the house. Never mind "the prevailing wind blows from the South West", it's blowing round and round in circles and whipping itself up into a right old bad temper.

So I Am Trying Not To Panic. I specifically put in a request Upstairs for sunshine this month. I submitted it in plenty of time and in writing - how can it have been ignored? Is it too late to go to church and start praying? I realise with dismay that there is only one Sunday left before we go, and that God may well discern that there is a teeny bit of self-interest in my new-found devotion.

Giving up on religion I turn to science and check out the long range weather forecast. Next weekend is predicted to be cloudy but not too much rain. A glimmer of hope lifts me from my despondency. Maybe it won't be too foul after all...although given the famous unpredictability of the British weather I may still pop into church on Sunday just in case.....


I have just taken my new Vango 85 quid sleeping bag with me on a weekend camping trip with my daughter and her friends - it was hopeless (the sleeping bag, not the camping trip). I now realise that the reason it is as light as a paper bag is because it may as well be made of paper for the amount of warmth it affords. Even in my lovely Warmbac "sleepsuit" (see below) I was freezing and, despite also donning two more jumpers, I still strayed into the edges of hypothermia. I finally gave in and ungallantly nicked a sleeping bag off the kids' bed. (I hear your howls of outrage but they were fine in their £10.99 sleeping bags plus quilt. Well, ok, they were complaining a little, but that's what 14-year-olds do) -and I resolved there and then to return the Vango as it was pretty much useless.

Cavers are more sartorially discerning than you might think and here is your proof. These "furries" are for wearing under oversuits but they are also brilliant for camping, or for just snuggling into on those colder winter evenings. Check out
caveclimb for the full range. Unfortunately they are too bulky to take cycling though.

Thursday, 2 April 2009

Wanderings in the World Wide Web

I have, of course, been doing plenty of research on the web in preparation for this trip. (In no way is this an excuse for actually getting out there on my bike for some preparation proper! Desk research is Very Important.) This admittedly sedentary research mainly involves reading innumerable blogs written by cyclists who have completed the End to End or Lejog cycle ride (and, sadly, one or two who didn't manage to finish for various reasons), plus dipping into some cycling forums. In fact I am beginning to wonder why bother writing this blog - there are hundreds of them out there, just floating around in the ether.....

Reading blogs more or less at random, I am alternately reassured and terrified by what I read. I found The Ultimate Links List of Lands End to John O'Groats Cycle Trips useful as a starting point as there are loads and loads of Lejog accounts on this site. Some of the older links have now disappeared though. Also Google's Blog Search has thrown up some useful sites.

I was inspired by Esther & Michael Abrahams. They completed the ride to celebrate Esther's 60th birthday and to fulfill a long held dream. Despite the fact that on several days they spent less than five hours in the saddle, and their bikes weighing in at over three stone each when loaded, they still completed the trip in 23 days. I sat back and relaxed. What on earth have I been worrying about? We will do this no problem, probably won't even break into a sweat.

Then I come across other blogs from cyclists who are quite clearly in a different league. Jason is one of them. He completed the trip in four days. FOUR DAYS! Oh my giddy aunt. Don't suppose he carried his laptop either.....

The CTC Forum has been a useful source of information as well. There is a specific board for Lejog queries and discussions, and everyone seems very ready to help by sharing their experience and local knowledge etc.

Despite all this reading though I still haven't managed to resolve the dilemma of What To Do With Cornwall (see previous entry Which Route? 02 March 09).

Sunday, 29 March 2009

Blogging on the move

Having promised that I would blog as we go on this wretched ride (why, oh why am I doing this??), I had been wondering about the practicalities of writing whilst on the move.  Not literally I hasten to add – I have come to grief more than once when I have been looking at the map on the barbag rather than at the road - A laptop on the handlebars would be going too far!!  Typing will be done when we are not actually on the move.

We are planning to camp at least some of the time, and although a few hostels have wifi, a lot of the YHA’s don’t seem to have quite caught up with this technology yet.  As laptops get smaller and smaller I think more and more people will be carrying their machines and using wifi, but for the time being I am not expecting to be able to get on-line at overnight stops very often.

So what I had planned was, that in the evenings I would write the blog in Word and upload the photos from my camera, and then when we see a cafe or pub with wifi, to upload it all onto Blogger

But using Blogger is quite time consuming and fiddly, especially getting the layout and the photos in the right place.  I don’t want to be wasting an hour in the cafe  messing about with it.  

I have now discovered Microsoft Live Writer.  This is supposed to interface with Blogger so that it is possible to blog, add photos and maps and sort out all the layout whilst off-line.  Then one only needs to be connected to the internet to upload the blog.

I am not very computer literate, in fact just setting up the Live Writer (which involved inputting an email address, a user name and a password) caused me untold amounts of stress, but it seems to me this could be just the thing.  I am also pleased with the map feature, although the functions on it are quite limited as far as I can tell.  It is possible to mark with a pin the start and finish points, but not to trace a route.  I did look at doing this but it seems fiendishly complicated.  If anyone knows how to upload routes quickly and painlessly please let me know, otherwise I will be content to simply mark the point we have reached each day.

Lets see know how I get on with it….. 

Yes!!!!! One click and it was up there.   Tomorrow I will experiment with photos and maps. By the way, if you are interested, the machine I am taking is an HP2133 Mini-Note which I really like, it's dinky and easy to carry around. However it still weighs in at 2.8lbs so is something of an indulgence. Whether I regret it and end up mailing it home remains to be seen..

Monday, 23 March 2009

A Village at War

On Saturday morning we set off on the return ride from Street to Bristol, heading towards Frome. In an attempt to avoid the traffic I had plotted a convoluted route through winding lanes and small villages. Although pretty, progress was slow. In two and a half hours we had covered less than twenty miles. It was also very hilly. Mick at one stage decided he had had enough and tried to hitch a lift.

Unable to get a ride, we carried on to the A37. Stopping for a refuelling of calories at a garage, we felt somewhat downhearted. At this rate it would take us months to do the end-to-end ride. We realised that whilst we would try and avoid main trunk roads on the Ride Proper, we could not waste too much time on very minor roads either.

We detoured into Nunney on our way into Frome. Nunney castle was never intended as a defensive structure. It was built in the 1370's by a local knight, Sir John de la Mere. He obviously had quite a high opinion of himself, and after returning from France he decided that he would build himself a home in the style of a French castle. It may come in handy however, as apparently war has broken out in the village.

We discovered that all was not well in this most pretty of places whilst innocently sitting on a bench eating our sandwiches. We were admiring the village which, in our naeivity we thought must be a splendid place in which to live out one's days in peace and tranquility. Not so. The controversy is over a green planter which has been placed next to the castle wall and which has metaphorically divided the village. Organised by the local committee, some residents do not think it is in keeping with its surroundings. A man was filling the offending article with soil and in the half-hour that we were there, three people took the trouble to tell him that they thoroughly disapproved of the scheme. Despite his assurances that it would look lovely when it was finished they evidently were not swayed. After being berated by a woman who was about ninety, he sighed.
"I've known that lady for twenty years", he said ruefully. "I doubt she'll ever speak to me again. I was only getting rid of some spare top soil."

It just goes to show that even in Paradise we humans would find something to moan about. Someone would complain that the golden tree was blocking their light or that the bird song was waking them up too early.

We made our exit from Nunney and high-tailed it into Frome. Mindful of time, we took the main roads to Bradford-on-Avon which certainly did improve our time if not our nerves.

Bradford-on-Avon is one of my favourite places. It was a prosperous textile town until the nineteenth century when the wollen industry moved north to Yorkshire and the Other Bradford. It still seems to do pretty well though. It is also home to the famous Alex Moulton Bicycle Company, designers of the classic small wheeled bicycle. Alex Moulton also designed the suspension for the original Mini.

We stopped for a cup of tea at the Kennet and Avon Canal Trust cafe and then, as the sun was shining we thought we would gongoozle for a bit at the canalside. A long held dream of living on a narrowboat was resurrecting itself....

Being a lovely day the towpath was thronged with people and we carefully pushed and picked our way along to Avoncliffe. I have mentioned before that our cycling style is ambling with plenty of stops, and we did indeed stop once again at the Cross Guns for a pint of Tunnel Vision from The Box Steam Brewery. Sitting at the bottom of the garden is a lovely spot to admire John Rennie's aqueduct.



The ride from here to Bath was gorgeous, crossing the other aqueduct at Dundas and under the two hundred year old bridges at Sydney Gardens.



Travelling from Bath to Bristol was straightforward and familiar along the Bristol And Bath Railway Path; the first Sustrans project. Another example of the Beeching Axe, the line, part of the Midland Railway was closed in the late sixties as it was "un-economic". At the time the government argued that many services could be provided more cheaply by buses, and promised that all abandoned rail services would have their places taken by bus services. Since then, of course, we have had the further public transport disaster of bus deregulation. This morning I read that First, who have no effective competition, are withdrawing even more rural bus services across the West, from a service which is already woefully inadequate and ridiculously expensive. Grrr.

We coasted into Fishponds, off the path and home. Today's ride, sixty four miles. We thought we had done rather well and treated ourselves to a Chinese takeaway and a carry out from Humpers, which has been listed in Camra's Good Beer Guide for many years, and is the only off-licence I know which serves real ales on draught. This week it was Hidden Quest from the excellent Hidden Brewery in Wiltshire which we enjoyed very much. Cheers!

Street the Reprise

The original plan for this ride was to head farther south, but Minehead Youth Hostel was not yet open for the season and Exford Youth Hostel was fully booked. So it was back to Street YHA for the second time in two weeks. We decided to spice things up a little though by going via a different route this time. Live life on the edge!

For this trip we headed out towards Clevedon, turning left just after Clevedon Court and heading south. We cycled a couple of miles on the Sustrans route; the Strawberry Line, so called as it is on the line of the railway which used to bring strawberries up from Cheddar until it suffered the axe of Richard Beeching's Programme, finally closing in 1965.

Then on to Weston-Super-Mare. We had a minor disagreement as we came into Weston, which we subsequently referred to as the Toilet Row. Mick wanted to go into the shopping centre, I wanted to head straight for the front. I lost him briefly as he cycled off in a huff, and I was forced to text him to tell him that I had found a lovely toilet, which had won several awards. In fact, I told him smugly, it was probably the best toilet I have ever had the pleasure of using.

The toilet issue resolved, we stopped for a cuppa and bowl of chips before cycling along the sea front road.

It was a shame to see Weston's 100 year old Grand Pier, decimated as it was by fire last year. The owners, having spent a million pounds trying to make the venture a success, were said to be "devastated". They had owned the pier for less than six months when a blaze broke out during one night last July, completely destroying the historic buildings at the end of the Pier. Apparently no sprinklers were fitted and a fire alert contract with a private security firm had been cancelled a month before the blaze. No offical cause has been found for the fire and plans have now been submitted for a £10m rebuild. One can only speculate as to the true cause of the fire...

Wheeling along the winding roads to Brean felt deliciously remote. Along the beach road at Brean were rows of caravan parks, waiting to greet the many visitors that come here from the MIdlands. In 1861 the Brean Down Harbour Company planned to establish a trans-Atlantic port here to rival Liverpool. An agreement was reached with the Bristol-Exeter Railway and in 1864 the foundation stone was laid amidst great celebration. Unfortunately storms destroyed much of the early construction and disagreements broke out amongst the backers of the project. Eventually the scheme was abandoned. As we cycled along the quiet road, I mused about how different this place would have been if the port had been a success.

We cycled on through Berrow and on to Burnham-On-Sea. At the hardware shop I bought some lights, having foolishly left mine at home, Apparently there used to be two cycle shops in Burnham but now there are none. At the end of the town we headed onto the Brue cycle path. A local man told us how this area has changed over the years. Once a busy port, bringing in all sorts of goods from South Wales coal to Scandanavian timber, it is quiet now. Whilst the estuary is a haven for wildlife, the wharf itself is now a modern housing estate.

We were making good progress as we finally turned east at Hunstpill, crossing the busy A38 and even busier M5 as we went. At Gold Corner we stopped for another break. Here a pumping station is built on the River Hunstpill, which is not a river at all, but a surprisingly wide canal. It forms part of the drainage system for the Somerset Levels, and is an engineering project which had been envisaged since 1853. However it was only implemented during World War Two, apparently as a reliable water supply was vital for the munitions factory near Bridgwater. Mick says that it was built by Italian prisoners of war. I cannot find any evidence to support this but it seems plausible as Italian pows were undoubtedly set to work in the area, some willingly, some not.

Cycling this area is wonderfully easy as it is so completely flat. The lanes or droves follow straight lines, following the route of ancient walkways across the marshes and the corners are all at right angles. Luckly the traffic is practically non-existent. Too soon however the Polden Hills appeared in front of us and the last few miles were hilly. We rolled into Street hot and rather thirsty, having cycled 53 miles, and felt we had certainly earned a pint or two of Ruddles before tacking the final hill up to the youth hostel.